Nazir Sabir Expeditions
Leaders in Adventure Tourism
Duration: 35 Days
Best Time: Mid May - End August
Spantik Peak is known by various names all depicting different aspects of its beauty and grandeur. The northwestern face on the Nagar side with its bright red color of golden pillar is also called "Ghenish Chhish", which in Brushaski language means Golden Mountain. Ghinesh in Broshaski also means Queen. The peak is so majestic and beautiful that the local people call it Queen Mountain. Conway named it as Golden Parri, which means Golden Fairy and some call it Pyramid Mountain too. The peak is located in the Rakaposhi and Haramosh massif near Barpu and Garumbar glaciers.
The first attempt to climb the peak was made in 1903 via the Southeast ridge by Dr. and Mrs. Workman. They ascended up to within 330 meters of the summit. The same route was used by five German climbers headed by Kramer when they made the first ascent in 1955. Some teams have used snowshoes to cross the flat and huge plateau higher up. British climbers Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders climbed the Northwest golden pillar of Spantik in 1987, but they returned via the prominent Southwest spur.
Most recently Spantik (7027m) has been a favorite of climbers for training themselves for higher objectives. Lying to the south of the great Hispar glacier and standing above upper Chogolungma, Spantik offers an attractive climb. The approach path to the beautiful campsites along the Chogolungma Glacier offers vistas of mountain scenery with innumerable high peaks. The climb along the Southeast ridge is easily achievable amongst 7000m summits in the Karakorum. The ridge rises 2700m over its 8-km length affording the several safe campsites. It is a straight ascent with a gradient of 30º to 45º with a mixture of some tough and easy patches. The Southwest route also goes along a snow ridge of moderate angularity. The summit on clear days presents grand views of neighboring Rakaposhi, Diran, Malubiting, Ultars, Battura Group, Haramosh, the entire Shimshal Mountains, and K2 far beyond and many more. The view is absolutely breathtaking.
Although technically easy but Spantik is for mountaineers who have the experience of climbing as independent roped parties on snow and glaciers and at least have been on some smaller peaks of AD level. High altitude experience and an excellent physical condition as well as regular practice are required to be on this expedition.
Day 01 Islamabad
Day 02 Islamabad
Day 03 Skardu/Chilas
Fly to Skardu.
In case of cancellation of flight drive (10 - 12 hrs) by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel.
Day 04 Chilas/Skardu
Day free at Skardu.
If you are driving, complete road journey (07 - 08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km).
Day 05 Skardu
Final preparations at Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Day 06-10 Drive Skardu to Arandu by Jeep and trek to BC.
Day 11-26 16 days for acclimatization and climbing.
Day 27-31 Return to Skardu.
Day 32 Islamabad/Chilas
Fly to Islamabad (Subject to weather conditions).
In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.
Day 33 Islamabad
Leisure day a Islamabad.
In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 34 Islamabad
Day 35 Fly out. Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
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